LAOS, 6-13 May 2005
Two questions to ask yourself before entering a foreign country may be: "Does this country's airline, pass international safety standards?" And, "Is this country's only highway free from banditry and ambush?" If the answer is 'No' to one or both of these questions then it should really be time for a rethink. Unfortunately for us these questions and answers didn't present themselves to us until the air tickets were bought and the travel plans were in place.

Welcome to Laos. South East Asia's most carefree, laid-back and chilled out country.

Although I still don't know exactly what constitutes a 'pass' in international aviation standards assume that pilot aptitude and aeroplane handling ability must be part of the criteria. I have actually been on smoother, less dramatic roller coaster rides. Easy to be flippant now of course but we weren't laughing at the time. It transpires that Western embassies in the region do not allow their staff to fly Air Laos. Maybe they know something I don't.

As for the highway, the aptly named "Route 13", speculation about the attacks and bombing range from disgruntled rebels to outright banditry. Either way an ambush is an ambush and private minibus operators now ply the route for cautious backpackers.

For some reason guidebooks and current literature would have you believe Laos is officially the worlds "Least developed country". However, with just the slightest effort of research you will find this is not true although the country does feature on the UN shortlist. Laos does have an underdeveloped infrastructure, no rail network and only 40% of its road system is paved. And even then this is little more than a crumbling single lane that you compete with on coming traffic for. It is slow paced, even sleepy, but there are schools, colleges, theatres, satellite TV and so on. In fact, the only thing we struggled to find was chocolate.

It is also, officially (confirmed) the worlds "most bombed country". This is easier to comprehend. Between 1964 and 1973, the US Air Force carpet-bombed Laos day and night dropping more than 2 million tonnes of ordnance in a so-called 'secret war' against communists. More bombs were dropped in Loas in this time than on Germany and Japan combined during World War II. 30% of which failed to detonate and still lie scattered across rice paddies and mountains which to this day results in 11,000 casualties a year. A British mine-clearing team began the clear up and has since been joined by the UN but it is estimated it will take another 100 years to make the countryside safe. For more information on this subject check out www.undplao.org/uxolao.htm

And what stunning countryside it is. Lush, serene, calm, picture-postcard beauty. With the monsoon just days away, huge dark rain clouds loomed over with sinister intent, making the landscape all the more dramatic.

The relaxed pace of life is addictive throughout the country and even in the capital Vientiane you get sucked into a small town vibe. Little traffic, few people and no hassle, and that was at the weekend!

Our journey North, along the infamous Route 13, took us firstly to the small town of Vang Vieng (left). Little more than a large village, life in Vang Vieng is pleasant and laid-back and the recent influx of backpackers seemed to have puzzled the locals more than anything else.

From Vang Vieng it was on to Luang Prabang, quiet northern town, UNESCO listed for its aesthetic beauty, and famed for its vibrant night market. Here we took time to sit in the many cafes and people-watch whilst drinking the famous 'Lao Beer'. Apparently 98% of the beer is brewed and drunk within Laos but it is still said to be the best beer in the world. Giants Carlsberg bought over the Brewery only to discover after extensive taste tests that the beer could not be improved after all!

THAILAND, 13-23 May 2005
With the slow pace of life in Laos it came as a shock to leave for Thailand in a speedboat. I use the term 'boat' loosely but it certainly was fast. I could only guess at our speed as we flew up the Mekong River dodging debris, whirlpools and crocodiles, only physics and providence preventing a disaster. Not recommended.

Thailand is famed mostly for the beaches and islands that line both coasts in the south. These resorts are fully operational again following the tsunami and the only thing they request now is for tourists to return but unfortunately we didn't make it that far. Time and geographical constraints meant we concentrated on the north, which didn't disappoint.

Due to its unusual shape -- said to be in the image of an elephant's head and trunk -- Thailand incorporates many distinct environments. Mountainous forests in the north, dense jungle, flat central plains and tropical rainforests in the south. 13% of the land and sea is now classified as National Park, one of the highest ratios in the world. This wasn't always the case and it was recently estimated that Thailand lost 50% of its forest cover to illegal logging during the last 50 years. The selling of Thai timber is now illegal but all this has done is shift the problem to ever-exploited Cambodia.

As the most westernised country in South East Asia, Thailand enjoys democratic freedoms and freeish press (the monarchy remains off limits). This sets Thailand apart from its neighbours, but where it is dragged back down to parity is the ubiquitous levels of corruption, which thanks to that free press, almost every single newspaper article seems to involve.

The north is known for trekking, white water rafting and the distinct ethnic groups that still live in village settlements in the forest. The large northern city of Chiang Mai is a good base from which to undertake these activities. It also has an enormous night market jumping with tourists and locals alike.

Should you want to simply chill out as we did, the small, sleepy town of Pai is ideal. Hidden away, four hours northwest of Chiang Mai, amongst lush green forest. Be prepared for the restless, winding, uphill bus journey though.

The town consists of little more than a few streets with a small river running along its edge but it boasts beautiful views and easy access to trekking trails, elephant safaris, (should you so desire) water falls, natural hot springs and hill tribe excursions as well as boasting a plethora of small backpacker lodges and cafes.

Unfortunately the exposure of these hill tribes to tourists and western culture has gradually been eroding away at what makes them unique and villages haven't always been consulted nor rewarded financially for their part. However there are now agencies who operate within the realms of eco-tourism and whose responsible attitudes and care benefits the tribes and tourists alike. It goes without saying a visit should be booked through one of these companies.

Pai was so relaxed and compact we stayed longer than intended but eventually we made it to Bangkok. Low expectations of the Thai capital turned out to be unjustified as were the descriptions in the guidebook. Bangkok was busy but not oppressively so and visions of the streets being over run with drunken, lairy Brits in search of the next Magaluf, were not entirely fulfilled.

As the main transport hub in the region and within the country the city thrives on transit tourism and in the backpacker sector there are literally hundreds of bars, clubs, restaurants, shops and stalls catering to people of every nationality. There's also a vast weekend market that sells everything you could possibly want...and not want, from the latest European fashion to fried insects, sold in a pic-n-mix fashion (left).

The city also has plenty for site-seeing tourists and a cruise down the river gives you a relaxing view of many of the cities landmarks while the new air conditioned sky rail gives you an interesting angle of the cities more modern and westernised districts.

SINGAPORE, 23-28 May 2005
A two-hour flight took us to Singapore, which was far more atmospheric and appealing than we'd been expecting. In a country where spitting chewing gum and jay walking can result in a hefty fine we were expecting to have an ultra-clean, authoritarian and somewhat bland experience. In hindsight we should have known better, after all Singapore is made up of a healthy mix of Chinese, Indian and Malayans.

The influence of colonial Britain is visible everywhere with grand buildings and familiar street names while Little India and Chinatown both have beautifully restored multi-coloured buildings that give a diluted but accurate taster of what you can find in their respective countries.

The last remaining piece of land representing 'old Singapore' is an island off the tip of the peninsula called Pulau Ubin and is somewhere that the Singaporeans themselves seem to be embarrassed by. For a visitor however this island is a welcome break from the centre. This tiny island is home to many endangered flora and fauna and is easily accessed from the mainland. Hiring bikes for the day is a great way to venture around the island.

Singapore is known as 'The Garden City' and, by its own admission, 'The Modern Metropolis'. But its hard to disagree, it has fantastic public transport, boasts the highest rate of home ownership in the world and the highest GDP per person in the region. Strict controls limit waste, emissions and urban sprawl. Being just 100km from equator I could only look in amazement at a shop next to our hostel selling dated ski jackets, wooly hats and gloves. Unsurprisingly there was a sale on.